A Night at Kiyo Aji: Paris’ Hidden Japanese Gem in the 18th Arrondissement
Discover the Unforgettable Dining Experience at Kiyo Aji, Where Traditional Japanese Cuisine Meets Parisian Charm in the Heart of Montmartre
Every time I go to Paris, I berate myself for not coming more often. And yet, I do come—at least three times a year. But still, it's never enough. Paris is majestic, romantic, and utterly intoxicating, a goddess among cities. But, as with any goddess, there's an element of chaos that keeps me from moving here even though I have every excuse to do so. The language, the family, the friends, the culture—I'm a Francophile to my core. But that little frisson of disorder always keeps me returning rather than staying.
I arrived last weekend for a series of meetings and a chance to catch up with family I hadn't seen since the summer. My friend Leila, who knows my culinary curiosity better than anyone, had arranged dinner for me on my first night—at a Japanese restaurant. That's all the information I got. Japanese restaurant. An eclectic group of friends. It felt like the start of a bad joke. An American, a Japanese, a Lebanese, a Finn, and two French walk into a Japanese restaurant in Paris. It sounds like the setup for something absurd, but in this case, it was a dinner worth remembering.
The restaurant was in the 18th arrondissement, a neighbourhood with just the right amount of grit and charm. When you arrive, you can barely make out the entrance—an understated door flanked by a traditional Japanese curtain and through a large window, you catch glimpses of what awaits inside. It's all very discrete. But once you step through that curtain, you're hit with an entirely different vibe. Bright, inviting, yet still intimate. The room is L-shaped, with a sleek bar where 12 stools face the action. And behind the bar? Chef Kiyo Kunigawa looks every bit the part of the relaxed yet commanding master of his domain. He's cheerful and chatty and welcomes you like an old friend. Well, in our case, he was an old friend of Leila's, not mine.
Kiyo, the son of the legendary Kyoichi Kunigawa (the ''godfather'' of Japanese cuisine in Paris during the 80s), has carved out a name for himself that shines even brighter than his father's. Raised in France, he combines the precision of Japanese culinary tradition with the relaxed charm of a French bistro. And it's clear from the start that this is no ordinary restaurant. Kiyo prepares everything himself, with a pair of lovely ladies assisting with service, making you feel right at home. There's only one sitting per night, which feels like a private event. Kiyo's effortless hospitality makes you forget you're in a restaurant; it feels more like dinner at a friend's house, with the bonus of incredible food.
The menu is simple yet carefully curated: you can choose from the Tasting Menu or the Discovery Menu. The difference? The Discovery Menu includes an extra appetizer, and he serves 15 sushi pieces instead of 10, but I'm in for a treat either way. I opted for the Tasting Menu; every dish that arrived was a revelation. We started with three appetizers: a delicate seaweed salad, a beautifully balanced squid-and-leeks dish, and a comforting steamed egg custard with mushrooms. Then came the Donbimushi, a teapot of fish broth brimming with shellfish and oyster mushrooms. By now, we were already in a state of bliss, but this was only the beginning.
The sushi. Oh, the sushi. I've never been a sushi connoisseur, but by the end of this meal, I was a convert. There were 15 pieces in total, and I only managed to finish five before I began to feel like I had eaten an entire ocean. The scallops were heavenly—almost like butter, melting on the tongue. The raw prawns were so sweet they could've been served as dessert, and don't even get me started on the tuna, which was as perfect as you could hope for—fatty, tender, and utterly flawless. The salmon was, of course, a delight. By the time we reached the end of the platter, I was ready to be rolled down the hill back to my hotel, stuffed to the brim. But wait—there's more.
No, we weren't finished yet. We were treated to the most magnificent miso soup I've ever had. It wasn't just a side dish—it was the soup you could sip like tea for hours. And as if that weren't enough, there was dessert: three options, each better than the last. A traditional Japanese rolled cake, a peach sorbet (I think it was peach), and a sublime black sesame ice cream. I chose the black sesame ice cream, which was so perfectly balanced and unforgettable that I almost wanted to order a second one.
Kiyo Aji is a rare gem. It's as close as you'll come to Japan in Paris—not just in terms of the food, but the atmosphere. Everything is refined, thoughtful, and entirely free from pretence. It's the kind of place that leaves an indelible mark on your memory, one of those rare dining experiences where the food is transcendent, and the welcome feels like family. If you're ever in Paris, do yourself a favour and go to Kiyo Aji. It's an experience you won't soon forget.
To reserve a spot at Kiyo Aji and experience this exceptional fusion of Japanese tradition and Parisian flair, simply click here to book your table. Don’t miss out on an unforgettable dining experience in the heart of Montmartre—whether you’re a seasoned food lover or a first-time visitor to Paris, Kiyo Aji will leave you craving more.